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  #1  
Old 05-31-2011, 11:31 PM
Mark Wilson Mark Wilson is offline
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Hal Kelly Jupiter 10 / Mark 30 H

Just about done.This is a build from scratch project, from Clark Craft plans. Just waiting on running gear and a nice fresh Merc Mark 30 H from Dave Scott in Ottawa Ont. Should be an interesting combo.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_1678.jpg (40.4 KB, 12 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_1679.jpg (35.4 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg photo 2.jpg (35.9 KB, 10 views)

Last edited by Mark Wilson; 05-31-2011 at 11:32 PM. Reason: missed a detail
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  #2  
Old 06-01-2011, 09:49 AM
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Nice work Looks as if you got the deck down OK over the sponsons.
There is a bit of a compound curve there, that causes problems, as I found when I built one in the 60s.
Is this the longer model? -I think the original was 9'-10",
and he offered a scaled up version?
Others with experience with this boat, and the Hedlunds and Dubinskis that followed, will talk about a tendency to 'hook' when turning. Not sure what effect the taller 4cyl motor will have on that.
They have lots of lift, and pack air, but did not have tendency to blow over.

A few pix;
- Kelly with the OEM one
-my 'lay-down' version
-a copy built in FL recently, aired out
Attached Images
File Type: jpg HKelleyJup.jpg (44.0 KB, 11 views)
File Type: jpg Jup Bmod.jpg (44.0 KB, 394 views)
File Type: jpg 123.jpg (23.6 KB, 10 views)
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  #3  
Old 06-01-2011, 04:45 PM
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Looks great!!!
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Old 06-01-2011, 06:39 PM
fbref5269 fbref5269 is offline
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nice looper on your laydown

brian,

nice looper on your laydown. was that an a or b looper? i have several in my looper collection that i display. do you still have the looper?

frank
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  #5  
Old 06-01-2011, 07:51 PM
Mark Wilson Mark Wilson is offline
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Hi Brian,
I built the Jupiter at 9' 10", and wish now that I'd put in the extra 2". You are quite right about the difficulty of getting the deck ply to lay down over that big compound curve.
We got it perfect, but at a cost. Our secret is that we completely filled the hollow areas of the boat with industrial "A/B" foam which has great flotation benefits, but added a good ten pounds of weight. In laying down the deck, we just started nailing her down from the back and front, and when the expected bulge occurred, out came the Fein Multi Master, and we cut two long narrow darts out of the ply. Next we wedged up the ply, injected lots of nice thick epoxy between the deck and the top of the foam which had been faired in flush to the top of the longitudinal battens, slapped down some waxed paper on top, and buttoned the whole affair down with some 1/2" ply batons. We were thrilled and amazed at how smooth it all came out!
Your point about the 4 cyl. 30H is well taken, and once in the water we will proceed with great care; if it proves to be too much motor, we'll go the 2 cyl. corn popper route.
Thanks for posting the pics. Do you have any more?
By the way, I see you are from Merrickville. Did you know my folks, Marion and Bill Wilson? They lived there from 1974 to 1996.
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Old 06-01-2011, 10:04 PM
Mark Wilson Mark Wilson is offline
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Jupiter 10 construction

Here are a few shots of the Jupiter build
Attached Images
File Type: jpg April 27 3.jpg (40.4 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg April 27 6.jpg (21.2 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg April 27 14.jpg (45.0 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg 2010-09-12 at 18-00-22.jpg (47.5 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg April 27 7.jpg (37.1 KB, 6 views)
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  #7  
Old 06-02-2011, 12:02 PM
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Curves

I built a Hal Kelly Airborne this winter, also from Clark Craft plans. I made some changes to the structural framework but the shape is the as the original. Hal really liked those compound curves didn't he. I put on a full deck instead of an open passenger cockpit. I got a couple of small depressions because I didn't work the plywood equally as I went forward. It was glued with epoxy and nailed with ring shanks most of the way before I realized what was happening. It would have been a helluva job to pull it apart so I am kind of stuck with it. Not real noticeable to the casual observer but it sure grates on me every time I look at it. I have a MK 25 with a shortened fishing lower on it, sure handles nicely.
kk
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Old 06-02-2011, 12:42 PM
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This message has been deleted by DeanFHobart. Reason: spelling
  #8  
Old 06-02-2011, 12:45 PM
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Krazy Karl

Quote:
Originally Posted by krazy karl View Post
I built a Hal Kelly Airborne this winter, also from Clark Craft plans. I made some changes to the structural framework but the shape is the as the original. Hal really liked those compound curves didn't he. I put on a full deck instead of an open passenger cockpit. I got a couple of small depressions because I didn't work the plywood equally as I went forward. It was glued with epoxy and nailed with ring shanks most of the way before I realized what was happening. It would have been a helluva job to pull it apart so I am kind of stuck with it. Not real noticeable to the casual observer but it sure grates on me every time I look at it. I have a MK 25 with a shortened fishing lower on it, sure handles nicely.
kk
Hello Krazy Karl,

Post some pictures.

Thanks,
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  #9  
Old 06-02-2011, 03:23 PM
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Pictures

Here are some pictures.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Bottom Framing.jpg (41.8 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg Over 4.jpg (41.9 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg Done 1.jpg (29.3 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg Done2.jpg (28.5 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg Done3.jpg (44.1 KB, 6 views)
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  #10  
Old 06-02-2011, 03:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fbref5269 View Post
...was that an a or b looper?.. do you still have the looper?frank
-that was an A , that I built from a kit OF sent up to me, and various M20Hs.
We had been running alky KG7s and M20s with Hubbell stuff,
and decided to move up, picking the A as we thought it may be more reliable, but in fact reved higher, and caused issues in that regard, particularly ignition. As u can see we were running the REPCO mag plate with battery ignition, but got wicked point float over ~7000,
just where the horses were coming in. OF had a new idea every week,
re; double springs, Ford points, gaps etc.
I was still in school then, and had no business being in 'alky',
ie; NO money.
The solution was CD, or belt drive to a mag.
I graduated and went out east in the 70s, sold all my stuff,
and have never seen that motor since.
I did find my custom welded mid section, that I now have a Chuck Simon
deflector B Konig on.
Time permitting, I should mount that on the Kelly 'lay-down'.
It has not been in the water since 1970.
Time it got out to play again
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Old 06-02-2011, 07:18 PM
Mark Wilson Mark Wilson is offline
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Nice Job Karl! Does she have a center fin,and does she turn equally well on right and left hand turns?
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  #12  
Old 06-02-2011, 10:29 PM
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Turn Fin

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Wilson View Post
Nice Job Karl! Does she have a center fin,and does she turn equally well on right and left hand turns?
The turn fin is offset to the left. I have only turned it left. I don't feel real comfortable turning right although I have had to do it in marathons. Even when I used to ride motorcycles it was the same, left turns felt good, right turns not so much. Then again I rode a BMW twin and coming out of a left hand turn you could crank it on hard as the torque would pull you up and out of the turn. Right handers were totally opposite. Come to think of it we have the same kind of issues with our race boats.
kk
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Old 06-03-2011, 08:04 AM
ZUL8TR ZUL8TR is offline
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Jupiter deck curve

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Wilson View Post
Hi Brian,
I built the Jupiter at 9' 10", and wish now that I'd put in the extra 2". You are quite right about the difficulty of getting the deck ply to lay down over that big compound curve.
We got it perfect, but at a cost. Our secret is that we completely filled the hollow areas of the boat with industrial "A/B" foam which has great flotation benefits, but added a good ten pounds of weight. In laying down the deck, we just started nailing her down from the back and front, and when the expected bulge occurred, out came the Fein Multi Master, and we cut two long narrow darts out of the ply. Next we wedged up the ply, injected lots of nice thick epoxy between the deck and the top of the foam which had been faired in flush to the top of the longitudinal battens, slapped down some waxed paper on top, and buttoned the whole affair down with some 1/2" ply batons. We were thrilled and amazed at how smooth it all came out!
Your point about the 4 cyl. 30H is well taken, and once in the water we will proceed with great care; if it proves to be too much motor, we'll go the 2 cyl. corn popper route.
Thanks for posting the pics. Do you have any more?
By the way, I see you are from Merrickville. Did you know my folks, Marion and Bill Wilson? They lived there from 1974 to 1996.

Mark

On the Jupiter plans picture 23 http://www.boatsport.org/PDF/Jupiter1.TextMark.pdf Hal noted that soaking the plywood makes it easier to develop the compound curve. Did you do that?

When I modded my original constructed Wetback back in 1978 whrn racing in Region 5 in 25 ss with an all wood deck in place of the fabric I also had a compound curve to deal with, I made a poster board pattern of 1/2 the deck and stapled it in place to determine how best to work the nail pattern for the wood nailing. I used 4 mm Okume and got it down without problems but it took some inventive clamping like bent spring boards from the ceiling to push down on the deck in key locations, I didn't do any wetting. In my case 3mm would have been an easier to work with choice but at the time Harry Pinner
(a hydro racer and builder at the time) had 10 ft x 5 Okume available that best fit the decking.

Last edited by ZUL8TR; 06-03-2011 at 08:07 AM.
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  #14  
Old 06-03-2011, 11:14 AM
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DeanFHobart DeanFHobart is offline
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Very, Very Nice

Quote:
Originally Posted by krazy karl View Post
Here are some pictures.
Krazy Karl,

Thanks..... very, very nice job. Have lots of fun.

Best Regards,
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