Boat refinishing

[Jakeroub]

I'm gonna refinish my "new" boat, the old 7E, when it warms up. I have some questions... First, the boat has maybe 6 coats of paint on most of it, maybe 2 one some repair spots, and only some epoxy on even more recent repairs.

How much sanding do I need to do? Do I need to get all the way to the wood or just enough to smooth it out? I've started some sanding, but it is taking a looong time to get through a coat of paint.

What kind of paint and primer should I use? I've heard to use automotive, but I cant afford that. I've also heard that any oil paint'll work. My girlfriends dad is a firm beleiver in that PPG stuff and is telling me to use that.

What should I use to fill low spots?

Thanks,

Jake

P.S.- the boat has been sanded a bit since this photo

[jsilvestri]

Jake,
If it were me, I'd take all the existing paint off the boat using paint stripper. You can buy all kinds from Lowe's. I don't remember the name off hand, but the kind I use smells like oranges and is actually orange in color. Taking all the paint off will lighten the boat quite a bit and give you one solid surface to finish. As far as paint, I use "Easpoxy" paint made by "Pettit". You can buy it from your marina. It costs roughly $20-$30 a quart, depending on the color, but covers well. I apply the paint with a foam roller and smooth it with a foam brush. Once the paint sets, it looks like its been sprayed on. As far as filling all the cracks, remember, your dealing with wood and how perfect do you want it to be? Is the boat going to be a show piece or a racer? Also, whatever paint you use, make sure it has hardener in it, or else it won't be durable. Have fun!

[xcelerator]

Hi Jake, I usually use West System, I re-decked your brothers hydro with west system, they make alot of good products, of course it does get expensive, and if you buy stainless steel fasteners DON'T buy them at your local hardware store as they charge alot, cheaper to buy them in a box from say- westmarine.com- or other. Hope this helps, Shawn

[Abbott Racing]

When refinishing boats I always sand with a vibrating sander and 100 grit paper to get to bare wood or as close as possible. I finish with Czar spar varnish or Flecto Crystal Clear, I also use flecto paint. To repair imperfections I use epoxy with west System Micro light fibers. It makes a lightweight filler that sands easily. I also tint my varnish with small amounts of paint to give different finishes.

My CSH in the attached photo was sanded to bare wood, resealed with varnish tinted red. Once the airbrushing was complete I sealed with Dupont clear coat. I only use the clear coat when I have an airbrush finish.

The photo is not clear as the real color is red tint not orangey as it appears in the photo. Been doing this since the 70's and they always tend to come out nice.

[kampenracing]

I would definitely take it down to bare wood also. I have stripped a boat with 5 or 6 coats of paint before. You definitely have to use paint stripper. After getting it down to bare wood sand it with 220 to get it ready for primer.

[jsilvestri]

Personally, I would not strip the boat to bare wood, just down to the epoxy coat. The epoxy coat seals the wood nicely and gives the exterior of the plywood a durable coating. I've finished boats that were bare wood and they required many coats of sealer, making the boat heavy.

[Jakeroub]

I gotta say that sanding to bare wood may take me all year. I've already sanded for 1 1/2 hours and only got about one coat off of the starboard deck in front of the repair. I was using new 60 grit paper on my palm held random orbital sander. I think I'm gonna go with the paint stripper, then seal with penetrating expoy sealer(http://www.rotdoctor.com/boat/01RDad.html#CPES I used this stuff on my old home-built boat), then paint. If I use stripper, will it leave residue that make the paint not stick?

Jake

[dt 01]

hey jake i'm a painter not hydro's but same step's are used .

if you use the stripper like stated above after done sand with palm sander with 220 this will remove all the stripper and give you a clean suface but don't get to carried away as the primer will fill and also need to be sanded but sand primer good!!!

wipe down get all dust off make sure it's baby butt smooth before you spray finish!!!;) ;)

dave

[Mike Beegle]

Ive used a heat gun in the past to remove layers of paint it works great.....You just have to be sure not to over heat the wood and epoxy as it will soften up as well.....The heat gun is alot less messy than strippers and you can do small areas at a time ....

I have done a couple repairs and the heat gun worked well for taking apart the boat also remove the staples and heat up the pieces and it peels right apart with little effort no sanding or chisling.....
Mike Beegle
9-m

P.s. just go slow You can burn the boat....

[mercguy]

Originally posted by jsilvestri
Personally, I would not strip the boat to bare wood, just down to the epoxy coat. The epoxy coat seals the wood nicely and gives the exterior of the plywood a durable coating. I've finished boats that were bare wood and they required many coats of sealer, making the boat heavy.

Jake, I agree with Joe, I would not strip the finish down to bare wood, just to the sealer coat, as it will take alot of sealer (West, I use) to prevent the wood from bleeding through. Also remember adding TOO MUCH sealer stiffens the wood tremendously and will eventually crack, due to it not being allowed to flex. What I do, is apply West System, sand the sealer down to 220, prime (enough to fill the imperfections) , then sand the primer down to 600, then apply sealer primer (so it does not take 5 coats of paint), then paint with PPG basecoat, then PPG Concept Clear for a bright, shiny, long lasting finish. This might sound like alot of paint, etc, but half of it gets sanded back off anyways, inbetween coats. I have done dozens of boats this way and have (3) currently in the process. Yes, this process is expensive, but looks good and lasts....well, until you crash..LOL!!

Also, the other suggestions here on this thread are good too, this is just the way I do it. I might try the Interlux method shortly down the road though, as it is VERY durable and not too expensive and is specifically designed for boats............might be the best and most cost effective way for you to do it, although the color selection with Interlux or Easypoxy is not that wide.

[Jakeroub]

How would I get it down to the seal coat and not the wood? Can I control how deep I go if I use stripper, or would I have to sand? Or a combination of both? I'm planning on painting white with black crinkle hardware, so maybe Interlux would be good...

Jake

[mercguy]

Jake, just try and strip down to wear there is no paint left, as best as you can (even if some of the first coat of paint still remains). Be gentle and go slowly. You will know when you have gone too far with the wood, as it will start to bleed through the finish, if so, stay away from that area as much as possible. It will happen though, so do not be too alarmed. It is more concerned with those of us that want to keep the natural wood finish, but since you plan to paint it all white, no real big deal.

Yes, Interlux could be the best way for you to go. Qts of Interlux usually run about $35 and can be brushed on with excellant results........

[HRTV]

Originally posted by Abbott Racing
When refinishing boats I always sand with a vibrating sander and 100 grit paper to get to bare wood or as close as possible. I finish with Czar spar varnish or Flecto Crystal Clear, I also use flecto paint. To repair imperfections I use epoxy with west System Micro light fibers. It makes a lightweight filler that sands easily. I also tint my varnish with small amounts of paint to give different finishes.

My CSH in the attached photo was sanded to bare wood, resealed with varnish tinted red. Once the airbrushing was complete I sealed with Dupont clear coat. I only use the clear coat when I have an airbrush finish.

The photo is not clear as the real color is red tint not orangey as it appears in the photo. Been doing this since the 70's and they always tend to come out nice.

Bob how can this boat not be sold yet ?? Are you guys crazy ? $900 with all the hardware ! I better not hear one new guy say I cant find a boat real cheap. :confused:

[Jakeroub]

Thanks everybody! This is gonna be a a big help. When I painted my old boat I used Latex house paint, can you beleive it?!?! I actually have had no problems with it...

One last question,

What Interlux product should I use? There are about a million options on their web page.

Jake

http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/

[jsilvestri]

Jake,
I've never had a problem with stripper taking off the west. However, I always follow the instructions on the container and as Darren mentioned, once I got down close to the sealer coat, I finished my job by sanding the rest off. Sounds like your headed in the right direction.

[mercguy]

Jake, you would want to use Interlux Brightside Polyurethane. White is p/n 4359, lists for about $35/qt, $105/gal. If you choose to spray it (my preference), you will need to get the Special Thinner 216. Hope this helps.......

[Jakeroub]

Daren,

This helps a ton. Before today I really had no clue what to do because lots of different people were telling me to do different things! Thanks!

Jake

[mercguy]

Originally posted by Jakeroub
Daren,

This helps a ton. Before today I really had no clue what to do because lots of different people were telling me to do different things! Thanks!

Jake

no problem Jake! There are so many ways you can go and so many correct answers (as read here). It really depends on how much you want to spend, how much time you have to spend on it, quality you want, your ability, and the overall right choice for you. I am just trying to give you some options also.........good luck!